Chengam Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple
Historical background
Chengam is a small town some 34 km west of Tiruvannamalai which houses a small but very fine temple dedicated to Venugopala Parthasarathi, a form of Krishna. The temple was built probably towards the end of the 16th or in the early 17th century on the orders of a local chieftain, Dalava Nayaka, whose portrait appears on one of the front mandapa’s pillars.
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The ceiling of this very ornate hall was once decorated with paintings depicting the Ramayana, the majority of which, but for those in its central part, have disappeared. Tamil and Telugu labels here and there bear the names of the main characters and/or identify the incidents depicted.
The scenes that have survived illustrate episodes from the Yuddhakanda, beginning with the duel between Lakshmana and Ravana’s son Indrajit, in which the former is wounded and eventually revived by the magical sanjivini herb brought by Hanuman.
What makes this set of paintings particularly interesting is that a number of the illustrated episodes are based on the local tradition rather than on the well-known Valmiki Ramayana. One of these is Ravana’s patala-homa, a special ritual aimed to ensure victory, performed by the Rakshasa king before fighting with Rama. Hanuman, Angada and their troops decide to disrupt the ritual in various ways. Ravana, however, is unmoved. Then Angada enters the palace and drags Ravana’s wife, Mandodari, by the hair and starts beating her. At this point, Ravana has to intervene. He interrupts the sacrifice, thus rendering it void. These incidents are described in the Telugu Ranganatha Ramayana dating of the mid 13th century.
The visual rendering of Rama’s return to Ayodhya on the aerial chariot, the pushpaka vimana, also has some noteworthy details. The divine couple are shown worshipping nine small shrines. There is a legend according to which Rama installed the images of the Navagrahas (the nine planets) in the sea and paid homage to them before crossing over to Lanka to fight against Ravana. This place, Navapashana, near Devipattinam (Ramanathapuram dst.) on the Bay of Bengal is a thriving pilgrimage place.
The series end with a beautifully detailed the Ramapattabhisheka tableau. Rama’s coronation is witnessed by a number of gods, sages, by his allies and his devotees among which is Dalava Nayaka.

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Bottom row: Hanuman informs Sita that she is to meet Rama; she is bathed, and carried in a palanquin. Vibhishana and musicians precede her; Central row: Celestials and dikpalas witness Sita’s fire ordeal. On the extreme right, Agni carries Sita in his
arms and restores her unscathed to Rama; A gandharva, floating on a cloud, throws flowers on the protagonists; Top row: On their way back to Ayodhya, Rama, Sita and their allies worship at the navagrahas shrine at Navapashana. On the right: monkeys.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Bottom row: Hanuman informs Sita that she is to meet Rama; she is bathed, and carried in a palanquin; Central row, on the extreme right: Agni carries Sita in his arms to restore her to Rama; Top row: The navagrahas shrines at Navapashana, and fragments of figures. On the right, monkeys.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parhasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Bottom row: Rama talks to Vibhishana, who prostrates before him, followed by a monkey and Jambavan; Lakshmana consecrates Vibhishana; Central row: Angada and Hanuman disrupt Ravana’s patala-homa (a sacrifice to ensure the victory over the enemy); Rama’s troops invade Ravana’s palace; Angada grabs Mandodari by the hair; Top row: battle scenes: Lakshmana fights against Ravana and other rakshasas under the eyes of Jambavan, Sugriva and other heroes.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Bottom row: Rama talks to Vibhishana, who prostrates before him, followed by a monkey and by Jambavan; Lakshmana consecrates Vibhishana; Central row: Hanuman and Angada disrupt Ravana’s patala-homa (a special sacrifice to ensure victory over the enemy); the monkeys invade Ravana’s
palace; Angada grabs Mandodari by the hair and drags her out of her rooms; Ravana, a disappeared figure, and Sugriva(?); Top row: battle scenes: Lakshmana fights against Ravana and other rakshasas under the eyes of Jambavan, Sugriva and other heroes.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Battle scenes on all three rows. Top row: Lakshmana is wounded on the battlefield and lies on Rama’s lap. The physician Sushena takes care of him; Hanuman goes to the Himalayas and brings back the mountain with the healing herbs.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Bottom row: Rama on the battlefield ; Vibhishana talks to him; Battle scenes; Central row: almost totally
disappeared; Top row: Hanuman on a hillock; Hanuman and Vibhishana talk to Jambavan; Wounded and dying heroes.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Bottom row, left: A council scene: Rama discusses the strategy with Hanuman, Vibhishana and Jambavan; On the extreme right: Lakshmana on Hanuman’s shoulders fights against Indrajit (?); Central row: Disappeared; Top row: The wounded and dying vanaras.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: General view of the paintings in the architectural context.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: View of the open mandapa on whose ceiling are laid out the Ramayana paintings.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa
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