Ramanathapuram
Historical background
Ramanathapuram, formerly known as Ramnad, lies 117 km southeast of Madurai, on the road to Rameswaram Island, one of the most important pilgrimage places in the whole of India.
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This town rose to prominence in the late 17th century as the capital of the Setupatis, one of the minor polities that emerged in the latter half of the 16th century and the early 17th century following the decline of the Vijayanagara Empire.
The palace was established by Kilavan Setupati (r. 1674-1710), though little of this period survives. The Ramalinga Vilasam was constructed around 1700 to serve as the rulers’ audience hall. This two-storeyed structure has four rooms of different size –three on the ground and one on the upper floor.
The murals on the south wall of the front hall deal with the political, diplomatic, and religious activities of Muthu Vijaya Raghunatha Setupati (r. 1710-1725). Those in the second room illustrate in detail the life of Krishna as narrated in the Bhagavata Purana. The narrative concludes on the north wall of the front hall, along with depictions of the avataras of Vishnu, and of Vaishnava holy places. The walls of the audience hall, at the back of the building, are adorned with a detailed depiction of the Balakanda of the Ramayana. The undersides of the arches which spring between the hall’s sixteen columns depict religious and courtly themes.
A narrow staircase leads from the audience hall to what is commonly known as the ‘King’s bedroom’ on the first floor of the building. This room is described in the diary of George Paterson Secretary to the British Government, who visited the Ramalinga Vilasam in 1773, as: “ornamented all round with numberless paintings on the walls, all of them representing amorous combats in a variety of most voluptuous attitudes…”
The murals decorating the walls and ceilings of the Ramalinga Vilasam, generally dated to the reign of Muthu Vijaya Raghunatha Setupati, are of pivotal importance for the study of 18th century mural tradition and material culture in the extreme south of India. It is known that they have been repainted at regular intervals, as recorded by Paterson and, unfortunately, some of them have been crudely painted over at a later date.
These extraordinary murals are a celebration of the power, wealth, and piety of Muthu Vijaya Raghunatha Setupati, and convey an impressive picture of his royal status.

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Muthu Vijaya Raghunatha Setupati carried on a floral palanquin by his ladies; near the palanquin, right, is his sword-bearer; Above the arch: Arjuna fights with Shiva as Kirata, and is given the pashupata astra (a magical weapon).
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arch

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Royal couple (?) and attendants; Above the arch: Cherubs.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arch

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Muthu Vijaya Raghunatha Setupati rewards two kathak dancers with a pearl necklace; Beneath the arch: Krishna in a cradle; Brahma and Shiva on a cloud.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arch

Description: Muthu Vijaya Raghunatha Setupati studying the Ramayana.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arch

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Muthu Vijaya Raghunatha Setupati receives a Dutch delegation.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arch

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: A lady pays homage to Muthu Vijaya Raghunatha Setupati, dressed in a coat of mai, brandishing a sword. Two ladies comment upon the scene; Behind the ruler stand two ladies, one of whom is his arms bearer.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arch

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Muthu Vijaya Raghunatha Setupati, his queen, and female attendants with lamps and the arms bearer carrying a fan.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arch

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: A lady reclining on a bed and attendants.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arch

Description: Narada pays homage to Krishna and his consort (?).
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arch

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: A gopi and her companions pay homage to Krishna.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arch

Description: Three girls visit a lady in a palace.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arch

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Courtly scene.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arch

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: At the presence of Narada, Tumburu, Krishna and Rukmini (?), Garuda kills some rakshasas (?).
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arch

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: A marriage scene.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arch

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: A royal procession.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arches

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Ladies visiting a holy man in the forest.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arches

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Tumburu and Narada watch Krishna and Rukmini (?) watering a tree, while two attendants fetch water from a pond.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arches

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Tumburu and Narada pay homage to Vishnu and Lakshmi seated on Garuda’s shoulders. Garuda pays homage to Vishnu and Lakshmi.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arches

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Above the arch Tumburu, Narada and gandharvas; On the arch an open shrine (?) flanked by ladies.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arches

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: An open shrine(?) flanked by ladies.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, arches
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