Ramanathapuram
Historical background
Ramanathapuram, formerly known as Ramnad, lies 117 km southeast of Madurai, on the road to Rameswaram Island, one of the most important pilgrimage places in the whole of India.
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This town rose to prominence in the late 17th century as the capital of the Setupatis, one of the minor polities that emerged in the latter half of the 16th century and the early 17th century following the decline of the Vijayanagara Empire.
The palace was established by Kilavan Setupati (r. 1674-1710), though little of this period survives. The Ramalinga Vilasam was constructed around 1700 to serve as the rulers’ audience hall. This two-storeyed structure has four rooms of different size –three on the ground and one on the upper floor.
The murals on the south wall of the front hall deal with the political, diplomatic, and religious activities of Muthu Vijaya Raghunatha Setupati (r. 1710-1725). Those in the second room illustrate in detail the life of Krishna as narrated in the Bhagavata Purana. The narrative concludes on the north wall of the front hall, along with depictions of the avataras of Vishnu, and of Vaishnava holy places. The walls of the audience hall, at the back of the building, are adorned with a detailed depiction of the Balakanda of the Ramayana. The undersides of the arches which spring between the hall’s sixteen columns depict religious and courtly themes.
A narrow staircase leads from the audience hall to what is commonly known as the ‘King’s bedroom’ on the first floor of the building. This room is described in the diary of George Paterson Secretary to the British Government, who visited the Ramalinga Vilasam in 1773, as: “ornamented all round with numberless paintings on the walls, all of them representing amorous combats in a variety of most voluptuous attitudes…”
The murals decorating the walls and ceilings of the Ramalinga Vilasam, generally dated to the reign of Muthu Vijaya Raghunatha Setupati, are of pivotal importance for the study of 18th century mural tradition and material culture in the extreme south of India. It is known that they have been repainted at regular intervals, as recorded by Paterson and, unfortunately, some of them have been crudely painted over at a later date.
These extraordinary murals are a celebration of the power, wealth, and piety of Muthu Vijaya Raghunatha Setupati, and convey an impressive picture of his royal status.

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: Badly rubbed; Centre and bottom rows: Krishna makes love to one of the gopis, carries her on his shoulders, and then disappears leaving her alone.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, west wall, north-west corner

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top and bottom rows: The lone gopi roams in the forest, eventually finds her companions and all together they search for Krishna.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, west wall, north-west corner

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top two rows: The gopis look for Krishna; Bottom row: Krishna suddenly reappears and commences the rasa-dance; On the left wall projection: Fan bearer.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, west wall, north west corner

Date: First half of the 18th century, partly restored
Description: Bhagavata Purana narrative; On the wall projection on the right: Varaha avatara and fly-whisk bearer.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, north wall, north west corner

Date: First half of the 18th century, partly restored
Description: Top row: Jalakrida (water play); Venugopala; A demon, in form of a tiger, tries to attack the gopis but is killed by Krishna; Bottom row: The bull Arishta attacks Krishna and the gopis; Krishna kills him.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, north wall, north west corner

Date: First half of the 18th century, partly restored
Description: Top row: Krishna, Balarama, Nanda and Yasodha travel in a chariot; Worship scene; Nanda is attacked by a python and saved by Krishna; Bottom row: Narada enlightens Kamsa on the incidents connected with Krishna’s birth; Kamsa attempts to kill Vasudeva, Narada restrains him; Vasudeva and Devaki are imprisoned again; Kamsa plots to have Krishna killed.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, north wall, north west corner

Date: First half of the 18th century, partly restored
Description: Top row: The gopas are attacked by Keshi, they report this to Krishna who is playing the flute; Krishna kills Keshi; Bottom row: Narada and a disciple; On the wall projection on the right, Varaha avatara and fly-whisk bearer.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, north wall, north west corner

Date: First half of the 18th century, restored
Description: Bhagavata Purana narrative; On the wall projection on the left, Varaha avatara; On the right, Narasimha avatara.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, north wall

Date: First half of the 18th century, restored
Description: Top row: Kamsa talks to Akrura; The gopis take leave of Krishna and Balarama; Centre: The boys on a chariot preceded by yet another chariot carrying Nanda (?) on the way to Mathura; Bottom row: Akrura’s vision.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, north wall

Date: First half of the 18th century, restored
Description: Top row: Akrura’s vision; Centre: Akrura and the boys travel to Mathura; They are met by a courtier (?); Akrura, Kamsa and courtier; Bottom row: Krishna and Balarama in Mathura kill the washerman and dress in new clothes; On the left and right wall projections: Varaha and Narasimha avataras.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, north wall

Date: First half of the 18th century, restored
Description: Top row: Krishna and Balarama arrive in Mathura, kill the washerman and dress in new clothes; Centre: Krishna and Balarama meet a florist, who gives them garlands and flowers; They meet the hunchback Kubja; Krishna steps on her foot and she becomes a beautiful woman; Bottom row: Kubja invites Krishna to her home; Krishna and Balarama arrive where the huge bow is kept; Krishna breaks it; On the left and right wall projections: fly-whisk bearers.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, north wall

Date: First half of the 18th century, restored
Description: Bhagavata Purana narrative; On the left and right wall projections: Narasimha avatara, Vamana avatara and fly-whisk bearers.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, north wall

Date: First half of the 18th century, restored
Description: Top row: Krishna and Balarama beat Kamsa’s men; Krishna and Balarama converse with Akrura (?); Bottom row: Kamsa in council; Krishna and Balarama confront Kuvalayapida, the mad elephant.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, north wall

Date: First half of the 18th century, restored
Description: Top row: Krishna and Balarama kill Kuvalayapida, while Kamsa looks on; Bottom row: Kamsa instructs his prize fighters, Chanura and Mustika to kill the youths: A fight ensues; Krishna and Balarama emerge victorious.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, north wall

Date: First half of the 18th century, restored
Description: Top row: Kamsa sends his prize fighters to kill Krishna and Balarama; the youths kill them; Bottom row: Krishna slays Kamsa; Guards attack Krishna and Balarama; Krishna steps on Kamsa’s body; The courtiers celebrate his victory; On the wall projections on the left and the right: Narasimha and Vamana avataras and fly-whisk bearers.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, north wall

Date: First half of the 18th century, restored
Description: Bhagavata Purana narrative; On the left and the right wall projections: Vamana avatara and Parashurama avatara; fly-whisk bearer and lamp bearer.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, north wall

Date: First half of the 18th century, restored
Description: Top row: The brothers of Kamsa attack Krishna and Balarama; The youths secure the liberation of Vasudeva and Devaki. Centre: Krishna and Balarama re-instate Ugrasena as king of Mathura and pay homage to him; Bottom row: Krishna and Balarama take leave of Nanda; Nanda and the gopas return home. Last scene: Krishna and a lady (Kubja?) conversing.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, north wall

Date: First half of the 18th century, restored
Description: Top row: Krishna and Balarama undergo purification ceremonies officiated by Garga; They pay homage to Sandipani, their preceptor; Bottom row: They go to Prabhasa, the Ocean pays homage to them; Krishna kills the asura Panchajana; He takes the conch which was the body of the asura and goes to the city of Yama where he finds Sandipani’s son; He restores the boy to his parents; On the wall projection on the right, Parashurama avatara.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, north wall

Date: First half of the 18th century, restored
Description: Top row: King Bhishmaka in council with Rukmini seated on his thigh, discusses her marriage arrangements; Rukmini sends a letter to Krishna through a trusted Brahmin; The Brahmin arrives in Dwarka and confers with Krishna; Bottom row: Bhishmaka (?) and a courtier worship Vishnu, in the meantime Krishna abducts Rukmini and fights against Rukma; Krishna and Balarama drive to Dwarka; On the wall projection on right: lamp bearer.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, north wall

Date: First half of the 18th century, restored
Description: Top row: Krishna’s and Rukmini’s wedding; To the left, the Setupati worships the divine couple; Above the north door: Gaja Lakshmi, painted stucco, and mural depicting the worship of four-headed deity and worship of linga (right); On the left Parashurama avatara; On the right, Rama avatara.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 1, north wall
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