Ramanathapuram
Historical background
Ramanathapuram, formerly known as Ramnad, lies 117 km southeast of Madurai, on the road to Rameswaram Island, one of the most important pilgrimage places in the whole of India.
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This town rose to prominence in the late 17th century as the capital of the Setupatis, one of the minor polities that emerged in the latter half of the 16th century and the early 17th century following the decline of the Vijayanagara Empire.
The palace was established by Kilavan Setupati (r. 1674-1710), though little of this period survives. The Ramalinga Vilasam was constructed around 1700 to serve as the rulers’ audience hall. This two-storeyed structure has four rooms of different size –three on the ground and one on the upper floor.
The murals on the south wall of the front hall deal with the political, diplomatic, and religious activities of Muthu Vijaya Raghunatha Setupati (r. 1710-1725). Those in the second room illustrate in detail the life of Krishna as narrated in the Bhagavata Purana. The narrative concludes on the north wall of the front hall, along with depictions of the avataras of Vishnu, and of Vaishnava holy places. The walls of the audience hall, at the back of the building, are adorned with a detailed depiction of the Balakanda of the Ramayana. The undersides of the arches which spring between the hall’s sixteen columns depict religious and courtly themes.
A narrow staircase leads from the audience hall to what is commonly known as the ‘King’s bedroom’ on the first floor of the building. This room is described in the diary of George Paterson Secretary to the British Government, who visited the Ramalinga Vilasam in 1773, as: “ornamented all round with numberless paintings on the walls, all of them representing amorous combats in a variety of most voluptuous attitudes…”
The murals decorating the walls and ceilings of the Ramalinga Vilasam, generally dated to the reign of Muthu Vijaya Raghunatha Setupati, are of pivotal importance for the study of 18th century mural tradition and material culture in the extreme south of India. It is known that they have been repainted at regular intervals, as recorded by Paterson and, unfortunately, some of them have been crudely painted over at a later date.
These extraordinary murals are a celebration of the power, wealth, and piety of Muthu Vijaya Raghunatha Setupati, and convey an impressive picture of his royal status.

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: Nanda, his wives and the gopas in Vrindavan; Krishna and Balarama go to the forest to graze the cattle; Krishna slays Vatsasura; Bottom row: Nanda and his family in Vrindavan; Krishna slays Bakasura and is praised by the gandharvas.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 2, east wall, south corner

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Bhagavata Purana narrative.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 2, south east corner

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: The boys take the cattle to graze and enjoy themselves; Bottom row: Krishna, Balarama and the gopas before Yashoda; Sports in the forest.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 2, south wall, east corner

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: Aghasura confronts the gopas and swallows them along with Krishna and the cattle; Krishna, however, increases his size and Aghasura chokes to death; Bottom row: A picnic along the Yamuna.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 2, south wall, east corner

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Bhagavata Purana narrative.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 2, south wall, west corner

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: Krishna looks for the the gopas and the cattle abducted by Brahma; Brahma pays homage to Krishna and returns the boys and the animals; Bottom row: The boys return home to their parents.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 2, south wall, west corner

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: Krishna frees the abducted boys who return home to their parents; Second row: Balarama kills Dhenukasura; The gods shower flower petals on him and his companions; Yashoda and Rohini bathe Krishna, bless their sons and put them to sleep; The boys in a cave (?); Third row: Krishna dives into the Yamuna and quells the snake Kaliya.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 2, south wall, west corner

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: Nanda, Yashoda and Rohini are delighted to have their boys back; Bottom row: The boys and the gopas are attacked by Pralambha, who is then killed by Balarama.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 2, west wall, south corner

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: Balarama kills Pralambha; Row 2: Krishna plays the flute; all of a sudden there is a fire in the forest; Krishna and Balarama rescue the cowherds and the cattle and return safely to their settlement; Row 3: (extreme left, top, damaged) Lakshmi and some pots (?); In a hilly landscape Krishna plays the flute enchanting cattle and gopis.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 2, west wall, south corner

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: Worship of Katyayani; The gopis bathe in a pool, Krishna runs away with their clothes; Row 2: Krishna addresses the gopis; The cows graze on the banks of the Yamuna; Row 3: Krishna and the gopas request food from the Brahmins who refuse it; The gopas then approach the wives of the Brahmins who bring them food; Row 4: Preparations for the sacrifice to Indra; The offerings are placed at the foot of Mt Govardhana; On the wall projections on the left and the right portraits of courtly figures.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 2, west wall

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: The gopis bathe in a pool, Krishna runs away with their clothes; Bottom row: Krishna sends the gopis back home and with his companions graze the cattles on the bank of the Yamuna.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 2, west wall

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: Krishna sends the gopas to ask food from the Brahmins; They refuse; When Krishna hears this, he approaches the wives of the Brahmins who feed him and his companions; Bottom row: Krishna and Balarama observe Nanda and the gopas preparing for the great Indra-yaga (sacrifice in honour of Indra); Krishna instructs the gopas to place the offerings at the foot of Mt Govardhana and worship the mountain.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 2, west wall

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: The gopas worship Mt Govardhana (Krishna appears on the mountain); After having completed the circumambulation of the mountain, they return to Vraja; Row 2: Indra and the gods; Indra on his elephant, Airavata, unleashes a torrential rain on Vraja; Krishna lifts Mt Govardhana, sheltering the gopas and the cows; Row 3: The inhabitants of Vraja thank Krishna while the gandharvas shower flowers on him; Row 4: Indra and the gods approach Krishna. Indra prostrates before him and crowns him as Govinda at the presence of the gopas and the gods. On the wall projection on the left: courtly portrait; On the right: lamp bearer.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 2, west wall

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: The gopas worship Mt Govardhana (Krishna appears on the mountain) and after having completed the circumambulation of the mountain they return to Vraja; Bottom row: Indra in darbar; With the help of other deities he unleashes a torrential rain on Vraja; Krishna lifts Mt Govardhana sheltering people and cattle.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 2, west wall

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: The gopas and gopis thank Krishna for having saved their life and that of their cattle; Indra descends from heaven with other celestials and prostrates before Krishna; He showers flowers on Krishna at the presence of the gods, Nanda, Yashoda and the gopas; Bottom row: Musicians and dancers, various gods and Airavata watch how Indra crowns Krishna and calls him Govinda; On the wall projection on the right: lamp bearer.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 2, west wall

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: Narada narrates Rama’s story to Valmiki; Valmiki sees the hunter killing the bird and curses the him; Row 2: Valmiki and a disciple bathe; the disciple pays homage to the poet; Row 3: Brahma appears before Valmiki; Valmiki composes the poem and teaches it to Kusha and Lava; The boys recite the poem before some rishis and then before Rama, Sita, and Rama’s brothers; Row 4: King Dasharatha and his ministers consult a group of ascetics.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, west wall

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: Narada narrates Rama’s story to Valmiki; Valmiki sees the hunter killing a bird and curses him; Row 2: Valmiki and a disciple; the sage bathes; Then, seated beneath a tree, he talks to him; Row 3: Brahma appears before Valmiki; The poet composes the Ramayana and teaches it to Lava and Kusha.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, west wall

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: Lava and Kusha recite the Ramayana to the sages; Then they recite it before Rama, his brothers and Sita; Bottom row: Dasharatha and noblemen in council; The king and the noblemen consult a group of ascetics.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, west wall

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: Dasharatha, talks to Sumantra, Vasishtha and another rishi; Noblemen pay homage to the Sanatkumaras; Row 2: Romapada and his cousellors; Romapada sends the courtesans to fetch Rishyashringa (Kalaikottu munivar); Row 3: the courtesans spot Rishyashringa in the forest and talk to him; Row 4: They seduce him and carry him to the kingdom of Anga; Row 5: Romapada meets Rishyashringa on arrival, and the long-awaited rain puts an end to the drought; Rishyashringa and the king sit together flanked by the courtesans and the noblemen of the court.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, west wall, north corner

Date: First half of the 18th century
Description: Top row: Dasharatha talks to Sumantra, Vasishtha and another rishi; Sumantra anda group of noblemen pay homage to the four Sanatkumaras; Row 2: Romapada and his courtiers discuss the drought plaguing the Anga country; They send the courtesans to fetch Rishyashringa; Row 3: The courtesans in the forest spot Rishyashringa and talk to him.
Location: Tamil Nadu Palace;Ramanathapuram
Positioning: Room 3, west wall, north corner
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