Somapalem, Chennakeshava Temple
Historical background
This temple, dedicated to a form of Vishnu, the ‘Handsome Keshava’, is located in a remote area of Madanapalle district, Andhra Pradesh.
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It was probably built during the Vijayanagara period, towards the middle of the 16th century by a local governor. This is one of the very few temples, besides Lepakshi, where Vijayanagara period murals have survived.
In his note on the Somapalem temple, J.H. Cousins wrote in 1937: “It is on the verandah in front of the door to the shrine (where ‘puja’ is performed once a week) that the eye is caught by patches of colour on the ceiling, once a series of paintings on plaster over granite ceiling- slabs. The paintings are in a lamentable state of decay. But the fragments of fine colouring, the character shown in groups and the individuals either in repose or vigorous action, the costuming, the glimpse of structures and equipages, all cry out for protection against individuals who scrawl their names over these paintings. They appear to be based on incidents from the Ramayana…. A study of them will add important data on the history of mural art in South India”. (“Note on the Vishnuite Temple at Somapalem” in Journal of the Indian Society of Oriental Art, Calcutta, Vol. V, 1937, pp. 131-45). Unfortunately, the situation has further deteriorated as could be ascertained during repeated visits between the 1990s and 2016.
Stylistically the paintings are related to those at Lepakshi, there are however differences, such as: the projecting further eye is a consistent feature, details of costumes and headgears. From the faded vestiges it is possible to detect the rich variety of the textile patterns.
Although probably the complete Ramayana once graced the ceiling of the open mandapa, only a few episodes can be identified with certitude. Among these are: Rama slaying Tataka, a remarkable fragment for its sheer vitality and tremendous expressive force; Janaka’s servants carrying Shiva’s bow; the four royal weddings are, unfortunately, reduced to a mere shadow; Dasharatha trying to mollify Kaikeyi, and Rama and Lakshmana taking leave of Dasharatha. Not much is left of the other parts of the narrative, except fragments of the Yuddhakanda.

Date: 16th century
Description: Top row (right); the four Ikshvaku princes on a chariot; (left) musicians and standard bearers at the royal weddings; Bottom row, from right: Manthara climbs on the tower and sees Dasharatha discussing Rama’s coronation with Sumantra; (left): Kaikeyi lies on a cot in the ‘sulking room’. Manthara at the foot of the bed reports what she has seen. Extreme right: Two messengers approach Rama and Sita.
Location: Andhra Pradesh Temple;Chennakeshava Temple;Somapalem
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: 16th century
Description: Top row (right): The weddings of the four Ikshvaku princes and the Mithila princesses, musicians and standard bearers; Bottom row (from right): On the right, Manthara climbs on the tower and sees Dasharatha discussing Rama’s coronation with Sumantra. Scene in a building: Kaikeyi lying on a cot in the ‘sulking room’ with Manthara and a servant. Rama and Lakshmana take leave of Dasharatha and Kaikeyi.
Location: Andhra Pradesh Temple;Chennakeshava Temple;Somapalem
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: 16th century
Description: Top row (right): The eight dikpalas approach Vishnu; Bottom row (right): The wedding party on its way to Ayodhya; (left): Musicians and standard bearers.
Location: Andhra PradeshTemple;Chennakeshava Temple;Somapalem
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: 16th century
Description: Top row (right): Four dikpalas of whom Ishana is the only recognisable; (left) A royal figure, probably Dasharatha, converses with two rishis; Bottom row: The four royal weddings of the Ikshvaku princes with the Mithila princesses.
Location: Andhra Pradesh Temple;Chennakeshava Temple;Somapalem
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: 16th century
Description: Top row (right): Royal weddings; (left) King Janaka seated on a throne; Bottom row (from left): Kaikeyi lying on her bed in the ‘sulking room’; Rama and Lakshmana take leave of Dasharatha and Kaikeyi.
Location: Andhra Pradesh Temple;Chennakeshava Temple;Somapalem
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: 16th century
Description: Top row (from right); King Janaka, seated on a throne with Sita on his right thigh, orders Shiva’s bow to be carried into the hall; (left) Rama and Lakshmana standing: Bottom (from right) Rama, and Lakshmana take leave of Dasharatha and Kaikeyi. Barely visible: Rama Sita and Lakshmana taking leave of the queens (scene identified by a Telugu caption); The exiles depart on a chariot.
Location: Andhra Pradesh Temple;Chennakeshava Temple;Somapalem
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: 16th century
Description: Top row (left): The arrival of Rishyashringa in Ayodhya, on the extreme right; King Dasharatha conversing with the rishis; Bottom row (right): Janaka, on whose left thigh sits Sita, orders Shiva’s bow to be carried into the hall.
Location: Andhra Pradesh Temple;Chennakeshava Temple;Somapalem
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: 16th century
Description: Top row (left): Vishvamitra seated, Rama and Lakshmana standing, watch Shiva’s bow being carried into the hall. To the extreme right, Janaka and Sita; Bottom row (right): The exiles take leave from the queens and proceed to the forest.
Location: Andhra Pradesh Temple;Chennakeshava Temple;Somapalem
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: 16th century
Description: Top row: The arrival of Rishyashringa in Ayodhya; Bottom row; Vishvamitra seated, Rama and Lakshmana standing, watch Shiva’s bow being carried into the hall. To the extreme right, Janaka with Sita sieated on his thigh.
Location: Andhra PradeshTemple;Chennakeshava Temple;Somapalem
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: 16th century
Description: Top row (left): Rama kills Tataka and, (right), protects the rishis’ yajna; Bottom row: The citizens of Ayodhya follow the exiles’ chariot (?).
Location: Andhra Pradesh Temple;Chennakeshava Temple;Somapalem
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: 16th century
Description: Top row: Rishyashringa performs the putrakameshti yajna (ritual for begetting a son); Agni emerges from the fire pit; Bottom row (left): Rama kills Tataka and protects the rishis’ yajna.
Location: Andhra Pradesh Temple;Chennakeshava Temple;Somapalem
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: 16th century
Description: Top row (right): Rama kills Tataka (left) and frees Ahalya from her curse; Bottom row (right): A chariot (unclear); Rama, Sita and Lakshmana meet Guha (?).
Location: Andhra Pradesh Temple;Chennakeshava Temple;Somapalem
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling
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