Chengam Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple
Historical background
Chengam is a small town some 34 km west of Tiruvannamalai which houses a small but very fine temple dedicated to Venugopala Parthasarathi, a form of Krishna. The temple was built probably towards the end of the 16th or in the early 17th century on the orders of a local chieftain, Dalava Nayaka, whose portrait appears on one of the front mandapa’s pillars.
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The ceiling of this very ornate hall was once decorated with paintings depicting the Ramayana, the majority of which, but for those in its central part, have disappeared. Tamil and Telugu labels here and there bear the names of the main characters and/or identify the incidents depicted.
The scenes that have survived illustrate episodes from the Yuddhakanda, beginning with the duel between Lakshmana and Ravana’s son Indrajit, in which the former is wounded and eventually revived by the magical sanjivini herb brought by Hanuman.
What makes this set of paintings particularly interesting is that a number of the illustrated episodes are based on the local tradition rather than on the well-known Valmiki Ramayana. One of these is Ravana’s patala-homa, a special ritual aimed to ensure victory, performed by the Rakshasa king before fighting with Rama. Hanuman, Angada and their troops decide to disrupt the ritual in various ways. Ravana, however, is unmoved. Then Angada enters the palace and drags Ravana’s wife, Mandodari, by the hair and starts beating her. At this point, Ravana has to intervene. He interrupts the sacrifice, thus rendering it void. These incidents are described in the Telugu Ranganatha Ramayana dating of the mid 13th century.
The visual rendering of Rama’s return to Ayodhya on the aerial chariot, the pushpaka vimana, also has some noteworthy details. The divine couple are shown worshipping nine small shrines. There is a legend according to which Rama installed the images of the Navagrahas (the nine planets) in the sea and paid homage to them before crossing over to Lanka to fight against Ravana. This place, Navapashana, near Devipattinam (Ramanathapuram dst.) on the Bay of Bengal is a thriving pilgrimage place.
The series end with a beautifully detailed the Ramapattabhisheka tableau. Rama’s coronation is witnessed by a number of gods, sages, by his allies and his devotees among which is Dalava Nayaka.

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Bottom row (from right) Hanuman talks to Sita; she is bathed and taken in a palanquin to meet Rama. Central row, celestials and dikpalas; Top row:
Rama and allies on the pushpaka vimana; Rama and Sita worship nine shrines; This probably refers to the Navagrahas (nine planets) temple at Navapashana, near Ramanathapuram.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Rama and Sita enthroned; Lakshmana and the rishis on the left, Bharata, Shatrughna and Vibhishana on the right; In the foreground Hanuman kneels before Rama; Sugriva rewards the allies.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temples;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Rama and Sita enthroned; Top row: Bharata Shatrughna, Vibhishana and other heroes on the top row; Bottom row: Guha (?); Angada (?); Jambavan and other allies.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Bottom row: Hanuman, Sita and Vibhishana before Rama; Lakshmana lights up the fire for Sita’s ordeal: Central row: Sita’s fire ordeal witnessed by all the deities; Top row: Rama, Sita and the allies fly back to Ayodhya on the pushpaka vimana.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Bottom row: Sita is taken in a palanquin preceded by Vibhishana and musicians to meet Rama and his allies; Central row: Brahma, Shiva, other celestials and the dikpalas witness Sita’s fire ordeal; Top row: Rama, Sita and the allies, on their journey to Ayodhya on the pushpaka vimana pay homage to the navagrahas temple at Navapashana.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Bottom row: Hanuman informs Sita that she is to meet Rama; she is bathed, and carried in a palanquin. Vibhishana and musicians precede her; Central row: Celestials and dikpalas witness Sita’s fire ordeal. On the extreme right, Agni carries Sita in his
arms and restores her unscathed to Rama; A gandharva, floating on a cloud, throws flowers on her; Top row: On their way back to Ayodhya, Rama, Sita and their allies worship at the navagrahas shrine at Navapashana. On the right: monkeys.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Bottom row: Rama receives Vibhishana, carrying a basket of fruit, who prostrates at his feet; Central row: Hanuman, Angada and their followers, disrupt Ravana’s patala-homa (sacrifice to ensure victory against the enemy); Top row: Battle scenes.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Bottom row: Rama talks to Vibhishana, prostrates before him; Lakshmana consecrates Vibhishana; Central row; Rama’s troops invade Ravana’s palace; Angada grabs Mandodari by the hair and drags her out of her rooms; Ravana, a disappeared figure and Sugriva (?); Top row: Battle scenes: Lakshmana fights against Ravana and other rakshasas under the eyes of Jambavan, Sugriva and other heroes.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Bottom row: Rama in council discusses the battle plans with Lakshmana, Vibhishana and Hanuman at the presence of three further chiefs; On the extreme right vestiges of a flying conveyance (?); Central row: The monkeys storm Ravana’s palace (?); Ravana, a disappeared figure and Sugriva (?); Top row: A battle scene, Lakshmana (?) fights against the rakshasas.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: On all three rows, battle scenes.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Battle scenes on all three rows. Top row: Lakshmana is wounded on the battlefield and lies on Rama’s lap. The physician Sushena takes care of him; Hanuman goes to the Himalayas and brings back the mountain with the healing herbs.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Bottom and central rows: Battle scenes. Top row, on the extreme right: Vibhishana and Hanuman talk to Jambavan; Hanuman, on top of a hillock fights against a group of rakshasas; He finds the mountain with the healing herbs, and carries it back to the battlefield.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Bottom row: Rama on the battlefield ; Vibhishana talks to him; Battle scenes; Central row: Disappeared but for a few fragments; Top row (from right): Wounded and dying monkeys; Hanuman and Vibhishana talk to Jambavan; Hanuman on a hillock faces a troop of rakshasas.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Bottom row, left: A council scene: Rama discusses the strategy with Hanuman, Vibhishana and Jambavan; On the extreme right: Lakshmana on Hanuman’s shoulders fights against Indrajit (?); Central row: Disappeared; Top row: Wounded and dying heroes.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Portrait of Dalava Nayaka, patron of the temple.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, pillar

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Ramapattabhisheka (Rama’s consecration); Rama and Sita enthroned flanked by Lakshmana and the rishis, on the left; Bharata holding the ceremonial umbrella, on the right. In the foreground are the allies, Hanuman kneels before Rama supporting his right foot; Sugriva distributes the presents (jewellery) to all the participants in the Lanka expedition.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Ramapattabhisheka (Rama’s consecration); Rama and Sita enthroned flanked by Lakshmana and the rishis, on the left; Bharata holding the ceremonial umbrella, Shatrughna waving a fly-whisk, Vibhishana and others on the right. In the foreground are the allies, Hanuman kneels before Rama supporting his right foot; Sugriva distributes the presents (jewellery) to all the participants in the Lanka expedition.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Ramapattabhisheka (Rama’s consecration); Rama and Sita enthroned flanked by Lakshmana and the rishis, on the left; Bharata holding the ceremonial umbrella, Shatrughna waving a fly-whisk, Vibhishana and others on the right. In the foreground are the allies, Hanuman kneels before Rama supporting his right foot; Sugriva distributes the presents (jewellery) to all the participants in the Lanka expedition.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Description: Bottom row: Hanuman, Sita and Vibhishana before Rama; Lakshmana lights up the fire for Sita’s ordeal: Central row: Sita’s fire ordeal witnessed by all the deities; Top row: Rama, Sita and the allies fly back to Ayodhya on the pushpaka vimana.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa, ceiling

Date: Late 16th or early 17th century
Description: Bottom row: Sita is taken in a palanquin preceded by Vibhishana and musicians to meet Rama and his allies; Central row: Brahma, Shiva, other celestials and the dikpalas witness Sita’s fire ordeal; Top row: Rama, Sita and the allies, on their journey to Ayodhya on board of the pushpaka vimana. pay homage to the navagrahas temple at Navapashana.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Venugopala Parthasarathi Temple;Chengam
Positioning: Open mandapa,ceiling
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