Alagar Koyil, Kallalagar Temple
Historical background
Situated in the picturesque and densely wooded Alagar Hills, some twenty km to the north-east of Madurai, this temple is dedicated to a form of Vishnu known as Kallalagar (i.e. ‘Beautiful Lord of the Kallars’). Kallalagar is believed to be the brother of the tutelary goddess of Madurai, Minakshi (‘The Fish-eyed One’). He plays an important role in the marriage festival of Minakshi and Sundareshvara (i.e.‘Beautiful Bridegroom’) –a form of Shiva – that takes place at Madurai in April-May every year. This temple, one of the 108 Vaishnava sacred sites, is probably a 12th cent. Pandya foundation but was substantially enlarged and refurbished under Tirumala Nayaka of Madurai (r.1623-1659).
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In the southwest corner of the outer courtyard of the temple, is the Vasanta mandapa (Spring mandapa) in which are 18th cent. murals illustrating the Ramayana. The building is open during the ten-days of the Vasantotsava (Spring festival) in the month of Vaikasi (May-June). For the rest of the year the mandapa is used as a store and kept locked. In its interior is a square island surrounded by a deep trench on which is a central pavilion whose roof is supported by four columns. Two further rows of columns skirt the island and the wall of the building. The central pavilion is accessible through small bridges on the east and the west. During the Vasantotsava the metal images of the deity and his consorts are taken each evening for three hours to this mandapa, the trench surrounding the central pavilion is filled with water and the whole structure decorated with flowers.
The paintings are laid out on the ceiling of the central pavilion, of the east corridor and on the upper parts of the walls. The scenes are arranged in narrow strips, with Tamil labels written on black background. There has been a progressive decay in the state of the murals since my first visit there in 1988-89. Water infiltrations have damaged a substantial part of the ceiling of both the central pavilion and east corridor, and spatter of whitewash have defaced some of the scenes on the walls. The paintings adorning the ceiling of the central pavilion depict the events narrated in the Balakanda, beginning with the sacrifice of Dasharatha and the birth of Rama and his three brothers, to the exploits of the youthful Rama culminating in the breaking of Shiva’s bow. The large panel in the middle shows Kallalagar with consorts and attendant deities, as seen in the sanctum of the temple. The rest of the narrative, some sections of which have disappeared, is laid out on the walls of the mandapa and on the ceiling of the east corridor where it ends abruptly with the meeting of Ravana and Kumbhakarna.

Date: 18th century
Description: Top row 3 (from left): Rama and Lakshmana spend the rainy season on Malyavanta Hill; Sugriva and Tara enthroned; At the end of the rainy season, Rama sends Lakshmana to remind Sugriva of his promise to help organizing the search for Sita; Lakshmana at Sugriva’s and Tara’s presence; Bottom row 4 ctd. (from right): Hanuman on his way to Lanka; He jumps from Mount Mahendra to Mount Mainaka; He encounters the rakshasi Surasa who swallows him, but he escapes from her ear; At the gate of Lanka he defeats Lankini, and enters Ravana’s palace looking for Sita.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Kallalagar Temple complex;Alagar Koyil
Positioning: Vasanta mandapa, east corridor, ceiling

Date: 18th century
Description: Top row 3 ctd. (from left): Lakshmana at the presence of Sugriva and Tara; Lakshmana, Sugriva, Jambavan and Hanuman meet Rama on Malyavanta Hill; Rama entrusts his signet ring to Hanuman. Bottom row 4 ctd. (from right): Sugriva; Jambavan and a third unidentifiable figure; The allies are trapped in Svayamprabha’s cave; Once freed, they meet the vulture Sampati who reveals to them Sita’s whereabouts; Hanuman whiles on the seashore and, encouraged by Jambavan and Sugriva, climbs on mount Mahendra and jumps across the ocean to Lanka; On his way he rests on mount Mainaka.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Kallalagar Temple complex;Alagar Koyil
Positioning: Vasanta mandapa, east corridor, ceiling

Date: 18th century
Description: Top row 5 (from left): Hanuman enters Ravana’s garden; Concealed in the crown of a tree beneath which sits Sita, he makes himself known to her and gives her Rama’s signet ring; He then destroys the garden; A guard reports him to Ravana, and the latter sends his son Indrajit to deal with the intruder. Bottom row 6, ctd. (from right): Hanuman with his tail ablaze, sets fire to the stables of the horses and the elephants; He then dips his tail in the ocean, crosses the sea and rejoins Sugriva, Jambavan and the others on the mainland.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Kallalagar Temple complex;Alagar Koyil
Positioning: Vasanta mandapa, east corridor, ceiling

Date: 18th century
Description: Top row 5 ctd. (from left): After a fierce fight against Indrajit and his followers, Hanuman is taken captive before Ravana; He sits on his coiled tail on Ravana’s throne; Bottom row 6 (from right): Incensed at Hanuman’s impertinent behaviour, Ravana orders Hanuman’s tail to be set ablaze; Hanuman, then, sets fire to Lanka before flying back to the mainland.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Kallalagar Temple complex;Alagar Koyil
Positioning: Vasanta mandapa, east corridor, ceiling

Date: 18th century
Description: Top row 7 (from left): The monkeys revel in the Madhuvana celebrating Hanuman’s return; Bottom row 8 (from right): Ravana consults his ministers; His brother, Vibhishana, and two further rakshasas defect to Rama; They fly to Rama’s camp; The monkeys, uncertain about their intentions wait for them armed with trees.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Kallalagar Temple complex;Alagar Koyil
Positioning: Vasanta mandapa, east corridor, ceiling

Date: 18th century
Description: Top row 7 ctd. (from left): Hanuman accompanied by Sugriva reports to Rama and Lakshmana; Hanuman talks to his companions and all together they follow Rama seated on his shoulders; Bottom row 8 ctd.(from right): Rama in council; In Lanka, Ravana consults his ministers.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Kallalagar Temple complex;Alagar Koyil
Positioning: Vasanta mandapa, east corridor, ceiling

Date: 18th century
Description: Top row 9 (from left): Vibhishana prostrates before Rama and Lakshmana; He is consecrated king of Lanka by Lakshmana and Sugriva; Vibhishana and Lakshmana, carried in a palanquin, reach the shore of the ocean where Rama lies on a couch of darbha grass. Bottom row 10 ctd. (from right): Having built the causeway, the troops cross the ocean; Rama and Lakshmana direct the attack on Lanka from a hill; Ravana watches the action from atop a gopura; Sugriva jumps on him and steals his crown; Ravana, shocked, descends from the gopura.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Kallalagar Temple complex;Alagar Koyil
Positioning: Vasanta mandapa, east corridor, ceiling

Date: 18th century
Description: Top row 9 ctd. (from left): Lakshmana and Vibhishana, carried in a palanquin, reach the shore of the ocean where Rama lies on a bed of darbha grass to propitiate Sagara, the god of the ocean; Sagara does not appear; Rama threatens him with the Agni-astra (fire-weapon); Sagara then appears along with his wives and prostrates before Rama; The monkeys headed by Hanuman, prepare to build the bridge to Lanka. Bottom row 10 (from right): Under Rama’s and Sugriva’s direction they build the bridge.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Kallalagar Temple complex;Alagar Koyil
Positioning: Vasanta mandapa, east corridor, ceiling

Description: Top row 10 ctd. (from right): Having built the bridge, the troops cross the strait; From a hill Rama and Lakshmana direct the attack on Lanka; Ravana watches the action from atop a gopura; Sugriva jumps on him and steals his crown; Ravana, shocked, descends from the gopura; Bottom row 11 (from left): Sugriva brings Ravana’s crown to Rama; Rama, Lakshmana, Jambavan and Vibhishana send Angada on a diplomatic mission to Ravana; Angada at Ravana’s presence.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Kallalagar Temple complex;Alagar Koyil
Positioning: Vasanta mandapa, east corridor, ceiling

Date: 18th century
Description: Top row 10 (from right): The monkeys build the bridge to Lanka under the direction of Rama, Lakshmana, Sugriva and Jambavan; Bottom row 11 ctd. (from left): Angada at Ravana’s presence sits on his coiled tail; He returns to Rama, Lakshmana and Vibhishana to report the failure of his mission; The troops on the move.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Kallalagar Temple complex;Alagar Koyil
Positioning: Vasanta mandapa, east corridor, ceiling

Date: 18th century
Description: Top row 12 ctd. (from right): Ravana enters the battlefield. Lakshmana on Hanuman’s shoulders fights against Ravana, is wounded, but is saved by Hanuman. Bottom row 13 (from left): Lakshmana is revived, and seated on Hanuman’s shoulders, resumes the fight against Ravana.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Kallalagar Temple complex;Alagar Koyil
Positioning: Vasanta mandapa, east corridor, ceiling

Description: Top row 12 (from right): Rama’s troops attack Ravana’s fortress; Angada drags by the hair Ravana’s wife, Mandodari, in the assembly hall; Ravana enters the battlefield on his chariot; Bottom row 13 ctd. (from left): Rama, seated on Hanuman’s shoulders shoots arrows at Ravana but his limbs regenerate; Hanuman, and then Sugriva, fight bare handed against Ravana, who succumbs to Sugriva’s punches and is rescued by two rakshasas.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Kallalagar Temple complex;Alagar Koyil
Positioning: Vasanta mandapa, east corridor, ceiling

Date: 18th century, partly obliterated by whitewash
Description: Top row 13 (from left): Hanuman flies back to Rama where Lakshmana is recovering; Lakshmana, seated on Hanuman’s shoulders resumes the fight against Ravana; Rama, then, enters the fray and, seated on Hanuman’s shoulders, attacks Ravana. Bottom row 14 ctd. (from right): Ravana’s brother Kumbhakarna is aroused from his sleep and after having eaten he talks to Ravana.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Kallalagar Temple complex;Alagar Koyil
Positioning: Vasanta mandapa, east corridor, ceiling

Date: 18th century, partly obliterated by whitewash
Description: Top row 13 ctd. (from left): Rama, seated on Hanuman’s shoulders shoots arrows at Ravana, but his limbs regenerate Hanuman and then Sugriva barehanded fight against Ravana; He succumbs to Sugriva’s punches and is rescued by two rakshasas; Bottom row 14 (from right): Ravana decides to consult his brother Kumbhakarna; Sugriva talks to Rama and Lakshmana; in Lanka scores of men and animals trample upon the huge body of the sleeping Kumbhakarna, waking him up, eventually.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Kallalagar Temple complex;Alagar Koyil
Positioning: Vasanta mandapa, east corridor, ceiling

Date: 17th-18th cenrury
Description: Vasanta mandapa view form the east
Location: Tamil Nadu Temples;KalllagarTemple complex;Alagar Koyil
Positioning: Vasanta mandapa, general view

Date: 18th century
Description: Lakshmana mutilates Ayomukhi. The princes sever Kabandha’s arms.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temples;Kallalagar Temple complex;Alagar Koyil
Positioning: Vasanta mandapa, north wall
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