Tiruvarur, Tyagaraja Temple
Historical background
Tiruvarur, in the heart of the Kaveri Delta, some 53 km east of Thanjavur, is renowned for the Tyagaraja temple, one of the most important Shaiva sacred sites of southern India. This large temple complex enshrines twin sanctuaries, the first dedicated to Tyagaraja, the form of Shiva together with his consort Uma and their son, Skanda-Murugan, sited immediately to the south of the second, the foundational shrine, dedicated to Valmikinatha i.e.Shiva as the Lord of the Anthill. Both shrines date back to the 11th century and were among those especially honoured by the Cholas. Later additions to the complex date of the Vijayanagara, Nayaka, and Maratha rule.
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Of particular interest are the 17th century ceiling and wall paintings in the Devasiriya mandapa, illustrating important legends connected with this site. One, on the north wall, summarises the complex foundational myth of the temple by simply showing an anthill, where Shiva, as Valmikinatha has taken residence.
Immediately near it, is the story of the Chola king Manuniti, ‘establisher of Manu’s justice’, a devotee of Shiva. According to the legend, he did not hesitate to run over his own son, whose chariot had run over and killed a calf. Shiva, moved by the king’s sense of justice, appeared before him and revived the prince and the calf.
The third narrative, laid out on the ceiling, is that of yet another devotee of Shiva, the monkey-faced Chola king, Muchukunda. In a former life Muchukunda was a great devotee of Shiva. The god, pleased with his piety, blessed him to be born as a Chola king. Muchukunda, renowned for his valour, was instrumental in helping Indra to win the battles against the asuras. As a reward Indra gave him the image of Tyagaraja. On returning from Indra’s heaven, Muchukunda installed the image at Tiruvarur, at the side of that of Valmikinatha.
Besides the Muchukunda story, the murals on the ceiling depict in great detail the Panguni Uttiram and the Vasantotsava festivals. Twice a year the deity’s festival image, Chandrashekhara, is taken from its sanctuary to the Devasiriya mandapa in the outer precinct of the temple. During the Panguni Uttiram festival, in March-April, the image leaves the temple and is paraded on various vahanas through the streets skirting it. In April-May at the climax of the Vasantotsava (Spring festival) celebrations Chandrashekhara rides through the street on an impressive ceremonial chariot.
Date: 17th century
Description: The battle between Indra and Varkali; Indra’s flight from the battlefield (left).
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, first bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Indra on his chariot (right) and his troops fight against Varkali (left) and his forces.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, first bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: The apsaras dance at the court of Indra in Amaravati (right); Indra goes to war (left).
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa,ceiling, first bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Indra on his throne, in Amaravati, watches a dance performance by the apsaras, when news arrive of Varkali’s threat to Devaloka, the world of the gods.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, first bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Vishnu worships the image of Tyagaraja, resting on his chest, while lying on Shesha on the Ocean of Milk.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, first bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Indra (?) worships the Tyagaraja image.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, first bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Vishnu worships the linga.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, first bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Vishnu meditates upon Shiva.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, first bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Vishnu performs the panchagni tapas (five-fires penance). On the left, Sridevi.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, first bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Vishnu worships the linga in the Pine Forest, in order to beget a son. On the left, Sridevi.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, first bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Vishnu, flanked by Sridevi meditates on Shiva in order to beget a son, and worships the linga in the Pine Forest
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, first bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Top row: A king, probably Manuniti Cholan, listens to a brahmin; Some dignitaries visit him; Bottom row(right): The anthill where Valmikinatha (Shiva) resides. The next scenes, almost disappeared, are part of the Manuniti Cholan narrative.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, north wall
Date: 17th century
Description: Top row: A royal figure riding a chariot preceded by a dancer and followed by a camel rider beating a kettle drum and a horseman. Bottom row: Conclusion of the story of king Manuniti Cholan: Shiva and Parvati on Nandi are worshipped by the gods and devotees.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, north wall
Date: 17th century
Description: Top row: The royal army on parade. A cow and a calf frisk before the Tyagaraja temple. Bottom row: Manuniti Cholan orders his son to be run over by the chriot which killed the calf.
Location: Tamil NaduTemple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, north wall
Date: 17th century
Description: Top row: View of the Tyagaraja Temple with the sanctuaries of Tyagaraja and Valmikinatha. Bottom row: The cow arrives at the palace and tells Manuniti Cholan that his son’s chariot has overrun her calf.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, north wall
Date: 17th century
Description: Top row: View of the Tyagaraja Temple; On the right the sanctuaries of Tyagaraja and Valmikinatha, on the left the temple tank. Bottom row: The calf is run over by the prince’s chariot. The bystanders are distressed. Bottom row: Manuniti Cholan surrounded by his ministers.
Location: Tamil NaduTemple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, north wall
Date: 17th century
Description: Top row; the calf is run over by the prince’s chariot; The cow runs towards the palace and rings the bell. Bottom row: the king and his ministers.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, north wall
Date: 17th century
Description: Geometric motif; Detail of the ceiling at the north end of the Devasiriya mandapa.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa ceiling, north end
Date: 17th century
Description: Geometric motif; Detail of the ceiling at the north end of the Devasiriya mandapa.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa ceiling, north end
Date: 17th century
Description: Geometric motif; Detail of the ceiling at the north end of the Devasiriya mandapa.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa ceiling, north end
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