Tiruvarur, Tyagaraja Temple
Historical background
Tiruvarur, in the heart of the Kaveri Delta, some 53 km east of Thanjavur, is renowned for the Tyagaraja temple, one of the most important Shaiva sacred sites of southern India. This large temple complex enshrines twin sanctuaries, the first dedicated to Tyagaraja, the form of Shiva together with his consort Uma and their son, Skanda-Murugan, sited immediately to the south of the second, the foundational shrine, dedicated to Valmikinatha i.e.Shiva as the Lord of the Anthill. Both shrines date back to the 11th century and were among those especially honoured by the Cholas. Later additions to the complex date of the Vijayanagara, Nayaka, and Maratha rule.
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Of particular interest are the 17th century ceiling and wall paintings in the Devasiriya mandapa, illustrating important legends connected with this site. One, on the north wall, summarises the complex foundational myth of the temple by simply showing an anthill, where Shiva, as Valmikinatha has taken residence.
Immediately near it, is the story of the Chola king Manuniti, ‘establisher of Manu’s justice’, a devotee of Shiva. According to the legend, he did not hesitate to run over his own son, whose chariot had run over and killed a calf. Shiva, moved by the king’s sense of justice, appeared before him and revived the prince and the calf.
The third narrative, laid out on the ceiling, is that of yet another devotee of Shiva, the monkey-faced Chola king, Muchukunda. In a former life Muchukunda was a great devotee of Shiva. The god, pleased with his piety, blessed him to be born as a Chola king. Muchukunda, renowned for his valour, was instrumental in helping Indra to win the battles against the asuras. As a reward Indra gave him the image of Tyagaraja. On returning from Indra’s heaven, Muchukunda installed the image at Tiruvarur, at the side of that of Valmikinatha.
Besides the Muchukunda story, the murals on the ceiling depict in great detail the Panguni Uttiram and the Vasantotsava festivals. Twice a year the deity’s festival image, Chandrashekhara, is taken from its sanctuary to the Devasiriya mandapa in the outer precinct of the temple. During the Panguni Uttiram festival, in March-April, the image leaves the temple and is paraded on various vahanas through the streets skirting it. In April-May at the climax of the Vasantotsava (Spring festival) celebrations Chandrashekhara rides through the street on an impressive ceremonial chariot.
Date: 17th century
Description: Muchukunda sees Indra’s puja to Tyagaraja. Below: Tyagaraja appears in a dream to Muchukunda and asks him to take him to Tiruvarur. Muchukunda asks Indra’s permission. Indra sends him to the Ocean of Milk to ask Vishnu’s permission. Muchukunda returns with Vishnu’s reply.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Indra asks Vishvakarma to make six identical images of Tyagaraja. Vishvakarma presents them to Indra, who gives them to Muchukunda. Muchukunda rejects them one by one saying that they are not the real Tyagaraja. Indra gives the real Tyagaraja to Muchukunda (top centre), who worships it. Lower left: Muchukunda sends Vishvakarma to earth to find a suitable home for Tyagaraja.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Vishvakarma, shown here seated opposite the Valmikinatha shrine in Tiruvarur, weighs Tiruvarur against all the other holy places in the world. Having the proof that this is a suitable place for the Tyagaraja icon, he returns to inform Muchukunda.
Location: Tamil NaduTemple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Vishvakarma returns to inform Muchukunda that Tiruvarur is the suitable place. The original Tyagaraja and the other six images are taken to earth in a superbly decorated chariot; The celestials throw flower petals on the conveyance. On the left, the Valmikinatha shrine.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: The seven images are transported to earth on a chariot under a shower of flower petals. Muchukunda carries Tyagaraja to Tiruvarur. At the centre,the Valmikinatha shrine. The nine heroes carry the remaining six images with great pomp to other nearby temples.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa,ceiling, second bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Under a shower of flowers strewn by the gandharvas, Muchukunda carries Tyagaraja to Tiruvarur and installs him in his shrine to the south of Valmikinatha. Vishnu, Brahma and the sages, Vyaghrapada and Patanjali among them, come to Tiruvarur for the Panguni Uttaram festival.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Under a shower of flowers strewn by the gandharvas, Muchukunda carries Tyagaraja to Tiruvarur and installs him in his shrine to the south of Valmikinatha. Vishnu, Brahma and the sages, Vyaghrapada and Patanjali among them, come to Tiruvarur for the Panguni Uttaram festival.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second aisle from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Vishnu, Brahma and the sages, Vyaghrapada and Patanjali among them, come to Tiruvarur for the Panguni Uttaram festival; Muchukunda precedes a palanquin on which the icon of Thyagaraja progresses through the crowds. Gandharvas throw flowers on it, while the gods floating on a cloud pay homage to Tyagaraja. The hoisting of the flag marks the beginning of the celebrations of the festival.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Panguni Uttaram festival. On the extreme right, the hoisting of the flag, and the gods floating on a cloud pay homage to Tyagaraja’s icon; The images carried in procession under a shower of flowers.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Panguni Uttaram festival; At the top: Bhadrakali shrine (left) and Aiyanar (rght). On the bottom, left, the images of Subrahmanya and consorts are carried in procession.
Location: Tamil NaduTemple;Tyagaraja temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Panguni Uttaram festival, the images of Subrahmanya, Valli and Devasena, and Ganesha carried in procession. On the left, a dance performance.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Panguni Uttaram festival; The image of Ganesha is taken in procession, preceded by a dancing girl performing at the accompaniment of musicians At the head of the procession: fireworks.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling; second bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Panguni Uttaram festival; The processional images of Ganesha, Subrahmanya and consorts, Bhairava, the three Tevaram poets (from right): Appar; Sundarar; Sambandar and Manikkavachakar carried on palanquins.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Panguni Uttaram festival; The images of Ganesha, Subrahmanya, Valli and Devasena; Vrishavahana and Parvati in procession.
Location: Tamil NaduTemple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, third bay from the east
Date: 14th century (?)
Description: Devasiriya mandapa, third aisle from the east, general view from north.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, third aisle from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Vasantotsva (Spring festival) celebrations; Muchukunda worhips the Chandrashekhara image in the Vasanta mandapa.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, third bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Vasantotsava (Spring festival) fireworks. The eight dikpalas, Narada and Tumburu look on from the sky, while the gandharvas let a rain of petals fall on the images of Shiva Vrishabhavahana; The image of Chandrashekhara followed by those of his consorts is carried in procession. Fireworks enliven the event.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, third bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Vasantotsava (Spring festival), fireworks. The eight dikpalas, Narada and Tumburu look on from the sky, while the gandharvas let a rain of petals fall on the images of Shiva Vrishabhavahana The Chandrashekhara image followed by those of his consorts is carried in procession. Muchukunda is seen standing on the lower right, and near the deity’s image.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, third bay from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Vasantotsava (Spring festival); The procession with the image of Chandrashekhara halts at the Periya Matam of Durvasa-maharishi, the priest welcomes the deity together with an accountant and a matam official.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling third aisle from the east
Date: 17th century
Description: Vasantotsava (Spring festival); The Chandrashekhara image on its way to the Vasanta mandapa halts at various mandapas to receive the homage of the priests and devotees.
Location: Tamil NaduTemple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, third bay from the east
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