Tiruvarur, Tyagaraja Temple
Historical background
Tiruvarur, in the heart of the Kaveri Delta, some 53 km east of Thanjavur, is renowned for the Tyagaraja temple, one of the most important Shaiva sacred sites of southern India. This large temple complex enshrines twin sanctuaries, the first dedicated to Tyagaraja, the form of Shiva together with his consort Uma and their son, Skanda-Murugan, sited immediately to the south of the second, the foundational shrine, dedicated to Valmikinatha i.e.Shiva as the Lord of the Anthill. Both shrines date back to the 11th century and were among those especially honoured by the Cholas. Later additions to the complex date of the Vijayanagara, Nayaka, and Maratha rule.
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Of particular interest are the 17th century ceiling and wall paintings in the Devasiriya mandapa, illustrating important legends connected with this site. One, on the north wall, summarises the complex foundational myth of the temple by simply showing an anthill, where Shiva, as Valmikinatha has taken residence.
Immediately near it, is the story of the Chola king Manuniti, ‘establisher of Manu’s justice’, a devotee of Shiva. According to the legend, he did not hesitate to run over his own son, whose chariot had run over and killed a calf. Shiva, moved by the king’s sense of justice, appeared before him and revived the prince and the calf.
The third narrative, laid out on the ceiling, is that of yet another devotee of Shiva, the monkey-faced Chola king, Muchukunda. In a former life Muchukunda was a great devotee of Shiva. The god, pleased with his piety, blessed him to be born as a Chola king. Muchukunda, renowned for his valour, was instrumental in helping Indra to win the battles against the asuras. As a reward Indra gave him the image of Tyagaraja. On returning from Indra’s heaven, Muchukunda installed the image at Tiruvarur, at the side of that of Valmikinatha.
Besides the Muchukunda story, the murals on the ceiling depict in great detail the Panguni Uttiram and the Vasantotsava festivals. Twice a year the deity’s festival image, Chandrashekhara, is taken from its sanctuary to the Devasiriya mandapa in the outer precinct of the temple. During the Panguni Uttiram festival, in March-April, the image leaves the temple and is paraded on various vahanas through the streets skirting it. In April-May at the climax of the Vasantotsava (Spring festival) celebrations Chandrashekhara rides through the street on an impressive ceremonial chariot.

Date: 17th century
Description: Geometric motif; Detail of the ceiling at the north end of the Devasiriya mandapa.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa ceiling, north end

Date: 17th century
Description: Geometric motif; Detail of the ceiling at the north end of the Devasiriya mandapa.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa ceiling, north end

Date: 17th century
Description: Devasiriya mandapa, view of the three eastern aisles from north.
Location: Tamil NaduTemple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa

Date: 17th century
Description: Devasiriya mandapa, second and third eastern aisles; view from north
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa

Date: 17th century
Description: Devasiriya mandapa, fourth aisle from the east; view from north.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa

Date: 17th century
Description: Indra’s messenger arrives at the court of king Muchukunda in Ayodhya.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa ceiling, second bay from the south

Date: 17th century
Description: Under a shower of flower petals, King Muchukunda, mounted on a chariot, leaves for Amaravati to help Indra in his campaign against Valasura. His army precedes him.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the south

Date: 17th century
Description: Muchukunda’s elephants and cavalry on the way to Amaravati.
Location: Tamil NaduTemple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa ceiling, second bay from the south

Date: 17th century
Description: Muchukunda’s elephants, cavalry and infantry on the way to Amaravati.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa ceiling, second bay from the south

Date: 17th century
Description: Muchukunda and his army arrive in Amaravati and are welcomed by Indra.
Location: Tamil NaduTemple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the south

Date: 17th century
Description: Muchukunda and his army arrive in Amaravati and are welcomed by Indra.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa ceiling, second bay from the south

Date: 17th century
Description: Indra and Muchukunda plan their strategy.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the south

Date: 17th century
Description: Indra and Muchukunda plan their strategy.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa,ceiling, second bay from the south

Date: 17th century
Description: The war against Valasura; Muchukunda mounted on an elephant, followed by Indra on a chariot, shoots his arrows against Valasura’s troops.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the east

Date: 17th century
Description: The war between Indra’s and Valasura’s forces.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the east

Description: Valasura on the battlefield; His chariot is destroyed and he is killed by Muchukunda and Indra (left).
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the east

Date: 17th century
Description: On their victory over Valasura, the gods shower flowers on Muchukunda and Indra, who then proceed to Amaravati.
Location: Tamil NaduTemple;Tyagaraja temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the east

Date: 17th century
Description: Muchukunda and the nine heroes proceed to Indra’s Amaravati.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the east

Date: 17th century
Description: Muchukunda and the nine heroes proceed to Indra’s Amaravati.
Location: Tamil Nadu Temple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the east

Date: 17th century
Description: Muchukunda and the nine heroes arrive in Indra’s heaven. The ladies throw flowers petals on them from the windows of their palaces. On the left (bottom): Indra’s mother, Aditi, welcomes Muchukunda On the top storey of a palace, on the upper left corner, Muchukunda is decorated with a garland of parijata flowers at the presence of the nine heroes.
Location: Tamil NaduTemple;Tyagaraja Temple;Tiruvarur
Positioning: Devasiriya mandapa, ceiling, second bay from the east
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